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Monday, Oct. 2, 2006 | Today we’re eyeing a week where southern hemi swell will be supplanted by NW activity. While at first this may sound like great news for west facing breaks, size is not significant, and winds, weather and tides will become a bit problematic as troughs come ashore. We’re also headed towards one lulu of a lunar event this Friday.
Right now, the California Buoy is checking in at 6 feet with 14-second periods. Closer to the coast, the Half Moon Bay buoy is at 4 feet with 16-second periods and Cape San Martin buoy is at 5 feet with 16-second periods.
The long periods on these northern buoys are from the incoming NW swell, yet most near-shore buoys in SoCal waters are showing decreasing southern hemi SW swell with 2.0-2.5 foot seas having 12-14 second periods.
Overall, the swell energy in the water shows NW periods averaging 15-17 seconds from 300 degrees and SW periods running 13 seconds from 220 degrees.
In SoCal, wave heights are running waist high most everywhere with some chest high sets coming through now and again at standout west facing breaks.
Northern California and the Central Coast are seeing chest to head high surf at most west facing breaks. South facing breaks are running waist to chest +, mainly from the help of NW diffraction.
Today and later in the week we are facing a slight chance of rain. While these may not be gully-washer events, and many areas may not see any precipitation at all, where the rain does fall will be a concern for increased bacteria levels. The first rain of the season is notorious for flushing out washes and creek beds, sending months of accumulated animal feces and other nasty crud into the surf zone. As a reminder, there is a risk of increased bacteria levels through a period of at least 72-hours following the end of any measurable rain event. Water contact should be avoided during this period, especially within 100 yards of drainpipes, creek outlets, river mouths, etc.
The tide is going to be a problem this week as we approach a doozy of a Full Moon this Friday. This will create a radical tidal swing with highs hitting the 7-foot zone by…[more]
Water temperatures are down a bit and are averaging 65 degrees in San Diego, 66 in Orange County, 67 in LA, 63 in Ventura County, 64 in Santa Barbara, 59 along the central coast, and 58 degrees in NCal.
Winds as of 7 this morning were light and variable most everywhere with a slight onshore NW effect. Afternoon onshores are expected to reach 12 mph. A fairly hefty trough is bearing down on the coast right now, which will affect winds…[more]
NW picks up Monday…[more]
Light NW due Thursday…[more]
Light SW due then as well…[more]
Tracking NW for the 9th…http://www.wetsand.com/swellwatch/report.asp?locationid=1&tabid=0&subtabid=0&catid=295&subcatid=0&SPLTabID=350“target=”_blank”>[more]