Tuesday, Jan. 9, 2007 | Today we have some moderately sized NW swell along the California coast. Size drops off Wednesday with an onshore flow. Wind swell increases Thursday into Friday, associated with a storm that could bring an ever-so-slight chance of rain, but will inevitably bring some cold air and wind issues as well. Weather and winds should improve by Sunday when some long-period NW ground swell fills in along the coast.

Right now, the California Buoy is checking in at 9 feet with 14-second periods. Closer to the coast, the Half Moon Bay buoy is at 10 feet with 14-second periods, and the Cape San Martin buoy is at 11 feet with 15-second periods. Farther south, Pt. Conception and Harvest buoys are recording 17-second periods with seas around 10 feet.

Overall, the swell energy in the water shows NW periods averaging 14 seconds from 310 degrees north of Pt. Conception, spottier in SoCal with longer 15-17 second periods from 305.

Please note that as with all long-period swells, especially given the steep-angle of today’s energy, there will be variation in size between breaks of varying bathymetry and westerly exposure. Surf spots that have steeper bathymetry that shoal well and refract the NW swell energy ideally—especially those with excellent westerly exposure—will see bigger sets than the slower sloped, longboard-type breaks (particularly those with minimal westerly exposure).

In SoCal, wave heights are running chest to head high at most west facing breaks with some pluses at times at standouts. South facing breaks are running waist to chest high. Note that due to the angle of the incoming swell, island blockage is affecting some breaks in the OC region today.

Northern California and the Central Coast are seeing sets running 2-3 feet overhead at most west facing breaks with DOH sets at times at standouts. South facing breaks are running chest high+, bigger at dual exposure spots.

The tide is at even, manageable levels, and for the most part, will remain so for the remainder of the week. The next lunar event—a New Moon on the 19th—will start another…[more]

Water temperatures are averaging 58 degrees in San Diego, 58 in Orange County, 59 in LA, 57 in Ventura County, 57 in Santa Barbara, 56 along the Central Coast, and 54 degrees in NCal.

Winds as of 7:00 this morning were light and variable just about everywhere with the only anomaly being some easterly winds to 15+ around Pt. Mugu. Although gradients are beginning to trend onshore, we are expecting some ENE winds this morning in many areas, and although spotty, reaching 15 mph at times. Any offshores this morning should calm by noon with afternoon onshores drifting in to 7-10 mph. Wednesday will be seeing an onshore trend, but winds…[more]

NW ground swell fades Wednesday…[more]

NW wind swell and less than favorable winds Thursday into Friday…[more]

Tracking clean, long-period, NW’er for Sunday…[more]

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