Offshore Flow Develops

Thursday, Feb. 1, 2007 | Today our new NW swell has arrived on schedule as weather clears, an offshore flow develops, but with the tide running rather high for morning sessions. This swell will be backing down this weekend, but weather should get quite warm then. We have some westerly swell due by the middle of next week, some moderate NW is being tracked for the 9th, and it looks like we might see a beefy WNW’er by the 11th.

Right now, the California Buoy is checking in at 8 feet with 14-second periods. Closer to the coast, the Half Moon Bay buoy is at 7 feet with 14-second periods, and the Cape San Martin buoy at 7 feet with 13-second periods.

Overall, the swell energy in the water shows WNW periods averaging 14 seconds from 275 degrees.

In SoCal, wave heights are running chest to head high at most west facing breaks with top spots picking up some overhead set waves. South facing breaks are running waist to chest high, bigger though at dual exposure spots. Note that due to the wide, westerly angle of the incoming swell today, there is a good deal of island blockage affecting the OC region where west facing breaks are more along the lines of waist to chest+.

Northern California and the Central Coast are seeing sets running upwards of DOH at most west-facing breaks. South facing breaks are running chest to head high from a good deal of NW diffraction.

Please note that this WNW swell still has some consistency to it, and as a result, there is a risk of riptides, especially at direct west facing beach breaks, and especially during the outgoing tides. Alongshore currents are also a concern. The NWS has issued a riptide warning through Friday as well. Caution is advised.

And since many areas have seen rain recently, we are still facing the possibility of increased bacteria levels from runoff over the next couple of days. As a reminder, there is a risk of increased bacteria levels through a period of at least 72-hours following the end of any measurable rain event. Water contact should be avoided during this period, especially within 100 yards of drainpipes, creek outlets, river mouths, etc.

The tide is still somewhat of an issue over the next couple days as we deal with a tidal swing due to a Full Moon on Friday. This spring tide is bringing early to mid morning highs above 6 feet, slowing things down near the…[more]

Water temperatures are averaging 58 degrees in San Diego, 58 in Orange County, 58 in LA, 56 in Ventura County, 57 in Santa Barbara, 55 along the Central Coast, and 53 degrees in NCal.

Winds as of 8:00 this morning were light and variable most everywhere with a slight offshore effect. Winds this afternoon should become onshore from 10-15 mph. Tonight the gradients turn more easterly, resulting in an upcoming offshore trend. On Friday, AM sessions can expect…[more]

NW fades this weekend…[more]

Tracking WNW for middle of next week…[more]

Tracking moderate NW for 9th…[more]

Tracking potentially powerful WNW for 11th…[more]