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Sunday, May 20, 2007 | Today we have a good amount of NW wind swell along the coast as gales continue across the outer waters. This pattern will shift over the next couple days with a decrease in wind swell and increase in southern hemi SW by midweek. Moderate southern hemi swell then becomes the dominant feature for a while with varying degrees of south-ness through the holiday weekend and into next week (and possibly into June). Condition-wise, we’ll be dealing with extremely low AM tides for a few days. As the tide recuperates later in the week, the onshore flow should weaken, improving winds and weather then.
Right now, the California Buoy is checking in at 6 feet with 11-second periods. Closer to the coast, the Half Moon Bay buoy is at 4 feet with 13-second periods and the Cape San Martin buoy is at 6 feet with 13-second periods.
Overall, NW periods are averaging 8-10 seconds from 290 degrees, although some 12-14 second period ground swell is coming through from time to time from 310. Trace amounts of southern hemi energy are coming through from 220 with 16-second periods.
In SoCal, wave heights are running chest high at west facing breaks, head high at times at standouts, but peaky. South facing breaks are running waist high, although breaks with SW exposure can expect a little better size (chest high or so) from…[more]
Northern California and the Central Coast are seeing sets running chest to head high+ at west facing breaks. South facing spots are running waist to chest high+, bigger though at breaks with SW exposure.
The tide is dipping to extreme lows for early AM sessions due to a tidal swing from the New Moon that peaked last Wednesday. This spring tide’s lows will shut down…[more]
Water temperatures are averaging 59 degrees in San Diego, 59 in Orange County, 59 in LA, 57 in Ventura County, 55 in Santa Barbara, 54 along the Central Coast and 50 degrees in NCal.
Winds as of 6:00 this morning were light and variable most everywhere in SoCal; however, many spots in SoCal had some eddy texture. Breaks along the Central Coast had 15 mph westerlies — in excess of 20 mph in NCal. In SoCal, onshore winds should increase mid morning, reaching 15 mph in the afternoon, although breaks north of Ventura can expect winds reaching 20+. Strong, northerly gradients along the coast are the cause of the wind-fest along the northern and central coasts, as well as the eddies and onshore flow in SoCal. These grads will…[more]
NW wind swell through Tuesday…[more]
Some southern hemi by midweek as wind swell fades…[more]
SW for Memorial Day weekend…[more]
SW also on the charts for next week, possibly into June…[more]