Waves and Weather

Sunday, December 09, 2007 | Sunday, we have a decent amount of NW wind swell along the California coast. This is about as big as it’ll get for at least the remainder of the week. Monday sees some minor NW ground swell fill in, and a light NW/SW combo is due Friday. Weather is an issue still in some spots today, winds could be an issue for some spots this week, and the tide will flood things out for the next few days with excessive AM highs.

Right now, the California Buoy is at 11 feet with 10-second periods. The San Francisco and Monterey buoys are hovering at 8 feet with 11-second periods, the Cape San Martin buoy off the Central Coast is at 11 feet with 11-second periods, and Pt. Conception is at 11 feet with 11-second periods.

Overall, NW periods are averaging 11 seconds from a steep 315 degrees.

In SoCal, most west facing breaks are seeing sets running chest to at times head high. South facing breaks are running waist high, a bit bigger at dual exposure spots. Northern California and the Central Coast are seeing sets running head high+ at west facing breaks, waist to at times chest high at south facing spots.

Since we’ve seen some rain recently, we are facing the possibility of increased bacteria levels from runoff. As a reminder, there is a risk of increased bacteria levels through a period of at least 72-hours following the end of any measurable rain event. Water contact should be avoided during this period, especially within 100 yards of drainpipes, creek outlets, river mouths, etc.

The tide is an issue over the next few days as we’re in the midst of a tidal swing due to a New Moon cresting at 9:40 this morning. This lunar event is raising early AM highs near the 6-foot zone which can…[more]

Water temps are averaging 59 degrees in San Diego, 59 in Orange County, 56 in LA, 56 in Ventura County, 57 in Santa Barbara, 55 along the Central Coast and 52 degrees in NCal…[more]

Winds at 8:00 this morning were mostly light, under the influence of a northerly flow from a passing low. This low, which will move across the SD region shortly with weather threats, could increase winds at times from the NNE to 15 mph today along the coast. In fact, as of this report, Huntington Beach had some 17 mph gusts, and Leo Carillo clocked some 35 mph blasts as well. Winds though should…[more]

Wind swell backs off Monday…[more]

Light NW ground swell Monday…[more]

SW/NW combo Friday…[more]