Sunday, Jan. 06, 2008 | Today we have quite of bit of NW swell along the California coast, but with another storm passing through the area today, conditions are pretty much trashed. NW swell diminishes over the next couple days as do the threats of rain. A series of WNW swells is lining up in the Pacific with arrivals starting later in the week.

Right now, the California Buoy is at 15 feet with 13-second periods. The San Francisco buoy is at 14 feet with 15-second periods, the Monterey buoy is at 17 feet with 15-second periods, the Cape San Martin buoy off the Central Coast is at 15 feet with 15-second periods, and the Pt. Conception buoy is at 15 feet with 16-second periods.

Overall, NW periods are averaging 15 seconds from 290-300 degrees.

In SoCal, the angle of the incoming swell is causing island blockage around OC, but west facing breaks elsewhere are running well overhead, up to DOH on the better sets. South facing breaks are pulling in some chest to head high wrap.

Northern California and the Central Coast are seeing sets running 15-20 feet on the face at west facing breaks, well overhead at south facing spots picking up the wrap.

Please note that today’s swell is greatly increasing the risk of rip currents, especially at direct west facing breaks and especially during the outgoing tides. Alongshore currents are also a concern. The NWS has issued high surf and coastal flood advisories. Caution is strongly advised.

Also, since we’ve seen quite a bit of rain, we are facing the inevitability of increased bacteria levels from runoff. As a reminder there is a risk of increased bacteria levels through a period of at least 72-hours following the end of any measurable rain event. Water contact should be avoided during this period, especially within 100 yards of drainpipes, creek outlets, river mouths, etc.

The tide is becoming an issue as we enter into a tidal swing from a New Moon that’ll crest Tuesday. This lunar event is pushing highs into the 6-foot zone and lows negative, which can severely slow down (or even shut down) many spots, especially the reefs and points…[more]

Water temps are averaging 56 degrees in San Diego, 56 in Orange County, 56 in LA, 56 in Ventura County, 55 in Santa Barbara, 55 along the Central Coast and 51 degrees in NCal…[more]

Winds at 8:00 this morning were lightly from the west. Onshore winds are expected to reach 15+ at times during the morning as another storm pushes through the region. Monday looks like a mixed bag of…[more]

NW backs off during first half of week…[more]

NW swells due during second half of week…[more]

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