Tuesday, March 13, 2007 | Tuesday we have some SW ground swell with some light, NW wind swell along the California coast. Some WNW swell is due Saturday, and it looks like some light to moderate SW is due during the second half of next week.

Right now, the California Buoy is checking in at 6 feet with 10-second periods. Closer to the coast the Half Moon Bay buoy is at 5 feet with 11-second periods, and the Cape San Martin buoy is at 6 feet with 10-second periods.

The energy on these buoys reflects the NW element of the energy along the coast. The southerly portion has seas running in the 2.7-3.0 foot range with periods as long as 16-18 seconds.

Overall, the swell energy in the water shows SW periods averaging 17 seconds from 205 degrees, and NW energy periods running 11 seconds from 305 degrees.

Note that the long periods in today’s swell will inevitably make for variation in size between breaks of varying bathymetry and southerly exposure. Breaks with steeper bathymetry that shoal well and refract the SW swell energy ideally—especially those with excellent southerly exposure—will see bigger sets than the slower sloped, longboard-type breaks (particularly those with minimal southerly exposure.

In SoCal, wave heights are running chest high at most south facing breaks with standouts seeing some shoulder high+ set waves. West facing breaks are running waist high, bigger though at dual exposure spots.

The tide slowly recedes throughout the morning today, hitting a size-dampening low around lunch time. This is the beginnings of a tidal swing we’ll experience this … [more]

Water temperatures are averaging 58 degrees in San Diego, 58 in Orange County, 57 in LA, 58 in Ventura County, 57 in Santa Barbara, 53 along the Central Coast, and 52 degrees in NCal.

Winds as of 6:00 this morning were light and variable most everywhere. Afternoon onshores are expected to reach 8-12 mph. Wednesday should be a … [more]

Southern hemi peaks Wednesday … [more]

WNW due Saturday … [more]

Light southern hemi middle of next week…[more]

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