Sunday, April 15, 2007 | Today we have some sloppy WNW wind swell along the coast that’ll be increasing throughout the day with some NW ground swell. Winds too though will also be increasing, as will chances of foul weather (rain and hail). The remainder of the week has NW wind swell, but varying degrees of wind issues. It looks though as if the week of the 22nd will get a reprieve in weather and winds, and some southern hemi swell is due around this time as well.
Right now, the California Buoy is checking in at 11 feet with 14-second periods, up in the past few hours, signaling the building ground swell element headed our way. Closer to the coast, the Half Moon Bay buoy is at 11 feet with short, 9-second periods, and the Cape San Martin buoy is at 11 feet with 15-second periods. Most coastal buoys though are showing periods running as short as 5-9 seconds.
Overall, the predominant swell energy in the water shows wind swell periods averaging a very short 6-10 seconds from 280-285 degrees and NW ground swell periods running 12-14 seconds from 295. Southerly energy is nearly nonexistent.
In SoCal, wave heights are running a peaky, sloppy and mostly white-capped chest to head high around most west facing breaks, overhead at times at standouts. This swell will be building throughout the day, and by this evening size could reach DOH at times at west facing breaks, although conditions can be expected to be extremely poor. As for south facing breaks, some NW diffraction can be expected for at least chest high waves (but sloppy as well).
Northern California and the Central Coast are seeing sets running DOH around west facing breaks with some set waves having face heights reaching 15 feet. South facing breaks will see some diffraction/wrap from the NW in the head high+ range.
Please note that today’s swell has heavy consistency to it, which will increase throughout the day. This is increasing the risk of strong riptides, especially at direct west facing breaks and especially during the outgoing tides everywhere. Alongshore currents are also a concern. The NWS has issued riptide warnings and a high surf advisory as well. Caution is strongly advised.
The tide is an issue as we’re now at the peak of a tidal swing due to a New Moon on Tuesday. This spring tide is bringing highs around 5 feet to early morning sessions. The tide though will…[more]
Water temperatures are averaging 58 degrees in San Diego, 58 in Orange County, 55 in LA, 57 in Ventura County, 55 in Santa Barbara, 53 along the Central Coast and 51 degrees in NCal.
Winds as of 7:00 this morning were blowing onshore most everywhere. Winds today are expected to reach 20 mph early on and stay that way through a good part of the evening. Monday should be…[more]
More wind problems this week…[more]
Wind swell this week, but conditions questionable…[more]
Southern hemi due week of the 22nd…[more]